Celebrating Autistic Climbers

This week is Autism Acceptance Week, and we wanted to highlight the stories of some autistic climbers from our community.  Keep reading to see Beth, Henry and Albie’s story! 

Beth

I came back to climbing about 3ish years ago, but bouldering instead of rope climbing, which I'd dabbled in previously. What actually got me to go bouldering was that my husband and two of our children went and all found it enjoyable, and my husband, in particular, described it as being peaceful for him. So I thought I'd try it.

It was a challenge to go because I get anxious with places and socialising and self-consciousness, so it took me a long time to get comfortable, and for the first 2 years, I'd only go sporadically with my husband and kids. I also have physical disabilities, so these posed additional challenges, but I wanted to use climbing as a way to connect with my family and other people.

 I am not sure if my autism helps me climb or if it is more that climbing benefits my wiring. I had heard other neurodiverse people talk about how climbing calmed them or helped organise their thoughts, process things, but I didn't find that until more recently, when I managed to progress on to more physically, technical or difficult climbs, then I actually felt a benefit. I think if I had a purely autistic brain and not split and contrasting with adhd and autism, then perhaps I could say with more clarity that my autism helps me problem solve in climbing, but I am not sure. I definitely believe it has been beneficial for my mental and physical well-being, and it has been a welcoming environment for me, which has been enriching. But I still find challenges with being in the space and am anxious before and after, but I do go there now on my own when it's quiet/less busy.

Advice-wise, I would say if you haven't tried climbing or are particularly anxious with social situations, bouldering gyms are often exceptionally welcoming spaces, and the sport seems to attract a lot of like-minded individuals who are friendly. And it's quite liberating in some ways and rewarding to problem solve and set/achieve climbing goals.

Henry

When and how did you start climbing?

So I started climbing around late 2015, early 2016 and like most, I was brought into the sport by a friend and ended up sticking with it ever since!

What's your favourite thing about climbing?

It would have to be the community hands down, and I suspect this will be a repeated theme. We are blessed with a beautiful climbing scene in the north east, which is so supportive and interconnected. You can chat to anyone about anything, whether it's your first session or a thousandth, you will feel supported by those around you. This is what makes this sport truly special!

Does your autism help with your climbing?

 I think in some aspects it does, though I wouldn’t say for me it gives an inherent advantage. Climbing, being a special interest plus my background in physiotherapy, definitely helps with analysing movement on the wall to figure out betas faster. I also have a special interest in climbing holds, which makes it quite hard to misread a hold. If I already know what texture, material, inclut, rounded, brand the hold is, it definitely helps with confidence! 

I think where climbing helps me is that it’s a space where I can express myself through the wall. I can move in the way that I want to. It is so individual, and you can make the sport into what you want it to be! You do not have to fit the ableist mould in climbing. Make the sport your own and enjoy it!

What challenges does it provide? 

I think with the time that I have been climbing for, it’s quite hard to look at the specific disadvantages, as I have been dealing with them for so long, in all honesty. I think competitions are likely where they are provoked the most, as the psychological arousal is ramped way up. Busy gym atmospheres can be really tough if you’re not used to them, and particularly in the older gyms with tight alleys, can be quite sensory overloading. In competition,s you’re walking a finer line than others to keep your head on your head. It can be really tough to get back on the horse, as you come off a climb, as you have all these other elements flying around you. But recognise what you need in every space and advocate for yourself. If a gym doesn’t have a quiet area, that’s not a problem with you; that’s a problem with the gym. The louder we are, the more likely we are able to get the kerb dropped!

I think it's really important to note the comorbid nature of autism. Not only are people dealing with massively individual presentations, but they are much more likely to have other things on top of that! Depression, anxiety, dyslexia, dyspraxia, IBS and many others are significantly higher in neurodiverse populations. We need to consider the effect these all have on climbing as well! 

What advice would you give to other autistic climbers?

Climbing is an amazing thing for both physical and mental health. It can give an obvious, clear sense of reward and satisfaction, which for people like myself can be really difficult. Not only to find but also to recognise in day-to-day work and social interactions. So it's incredibly easy to go into that downward grade chasing spiral if that's what you're getting the reward from. It's tough, but remember why you started this sport! Enjoy the motions of it, not numbers! Find joy in trying new styles; work on a move you haven't done before or wrote off; arrange a group session between you and your mates; try coaching someone new to climbing. There are so many ways we can enjoy this sport. Make it your own and find what makes you tick, and be aware of how easy it is to grade chase. If you catch yourself there, don't beat yourself up, have the compassion to reflect and reset and see how you can approach it again. 

Albie (From a parents perspective) 

When and why did he start climbing? 

Last August, a new climbing centre opened near us, and we were looking for activities to fill the summer break. He decided to give the “fun walls” session a try. We weren’t sure how it would go, as he struggles with changes in routine, new environments, and unfamiliar people. Even wearing new shoes or a harness was something we had to prepare him for in advance. But he handled it like a pro!

Favourite thing about climbing?

From our perspective as parents, it’s the smile on his face when he reaches the top of a wall and especially the journey back down. That alone gives him so much vestibular feedback. Every session gives him a full-body workout, and his brain is constantly engaged, planning routes, coordinating movements, interacting with instructors, and focusing on what he’s doing.

Does his autism help his climbing, and what challenges does he have due to his autism? 

His autism certainly helps with his hyper-focusing on certain routes and walls. He almost becomes obsessed with them until he completes it or they change. With that being said, change is difficult for Albie. Our climbing centre usually posts online what routes are changing and when, so we are usually able to let him know in advance. But when route 17 changed a few weeks back, he wasn’t happy! He loved that one!! He can also remember patterns of movement he has completed before, and we think this really helps him with information retention, too.

There are a few main challenges he has where his autism makes it really hard for him to climb, but we think that climbing has benefited him in so many ways that it’s helping him with things autism makes difficult for him. He doesn’t use his ear defenders nearly as much anymore, even when the route setters are in. We think this is because he now knows what to expect and understands the level of noise and vibrations on the walls. Busy times are still really tough, but we go when it’s quiet, and he has his lesson when it’s super quiet too, it’s with the same instructor and on the same day. All these little things help make climbing accessible to him.

Albie feels really confident and calm at 270, and we know this as he is talking to his instructor, the front desk and claps when others make it to the top! When he first started, there was silence, and there was never an answer to a question. Now, you can’t stop him!